Friday, 10 January 2014

London Collections Men - Day Three

The third and final day of the London Collections shows was filled with more shows and presentations, from established brands and new designers. Here is a run through of some of the great things I saw.

Agi & Sam


A stark black and white collection replaced the colour that we are so used to from Agi & Sam. The basics were mixed with African prints. Sharp, focused and political.

Jermyn Street St James

The morning breakfast presentation, held at Fortnums & Mason showcased the breadth of talent and design held in the small corner of London. Flagships stores from menswear stalwarts like Lock & Co, and Turnbell & Asser showed several tempting pieces. Images include hats from Lock & Co, underwear from Sunspel and Emma Willis ties.

Pringle of Scotland


This was another superb presentation where I could quite happily have worn every single item. A youthful, crisp collection saw fresh faced models with short messy slicked down hair wearing beautiful cashmeres and trimmed trousers, oversize neoprene bombers and elongated roll necks. Thoroughly modern and contemporary with a colour scheme of berry red, white, dark indigo and grey. Traditional items were re imagined in new ways, with knitwear and the familiar heritage prints paired with soft knot jogging bottoms.

Oliver Spencer

A modern and technically strong collection, focusing on urban luxury. Taking inspiration from Le Corbusier, and architecture, Oliver Spencer used charcoal, navy and forest green with shots of rust and caramel to create a clean line with a modern fit to traditional tailoring. Geometric shapes and colour were introduced into key pieces such as the lightweight nylon mac and judo pants.

Kent and Curwen



The debut collection from Simon Spurr was a great blend of traditional and modern design. A mostly monochrome palette was met with splashes of colour in rust, olive green and mustard. The coats and simple and impeccable, and the mixing of colours worked well. The accessories on offer were spot on too - simple and chic driving gloves, bags and iPad sleeves.

Burberry Prorsum 



Burberry went bohemian this season, blending masculine and feminine influences together to create a light, breezy and wearable wardrobe. Models wore trousers and trench coats, with string vests and printed silk scarves thrown over the shoulder. Inspired by art, and the bohemian artist, Christopher Bailey's new collection was full of covetable pieces.

Katie Eary


This collection was a complete change from everything else shown at LCM. Fun, heavy on prints and clashing prints and colours, the punk influence was evident but even the interesting hair on the models did not distract from some great pieces. Special mention to the oversize printed sweater above

Baartmans & Siegel

A collection balancing a fine line between bleak minimalism and comfort, inspired by arctic landscapes and exploration saw some standout outerwear from Baartmans & Siegel. Working in collaboration with Penfield, the three refined performance coats were sharply tailored featuring rubber hardwear, soft shell outer layer and premium down insulation for optimum durability and comfort. Tonally navy, and featuring differing shades of blue, these items were interspersed with a sheered mink trench coat and mohair fisherman sweaters. Strong, masculine and energetic.

E. Tautz



A chic and tailored collection, quite possibly the best yet  by E. Tautz. The outerwear on offer was incredible - slim, made from luxury fabrics and easy to wear. The checked suits and the dull blue, fiery red and wool grey and the strong lines made by the graphic prints on the coats, accessorised with clashing printed scarves created a fashion forward look.

A Sauvage

Adrien Sauvage's collection had the quality that all designers search for when working on a collation - desirability. This was another collection where every item was highly covetable. Undeniably young. sartorial and in keeping with the Dress Easy philosophy of the brand. I particularly loved the teddy boy and rocker influences seen in items such as the gorgeous green oversize coat and printed blazers worn with velvet trousers.

Fash/On Film

The last day of LCM ended with a great party thrown by the British Fashion Council and River Island, celebrating fashion films. Screenings films from Alex Mattsson and Palmer// Harding and with some great guest speakers, the above film created by Joseph Turvey x River Island Design Forum deserves a special mention, as a standout piece.

Attending Day Three of LCM in a grey wool double breasted cropped jacket with black roll neck and Lanvin pin, black Nudie Jeans and black River Island shoes, changing later into a blue Topman flannel suit and roll neck.

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