Thursday, 9 January 2014

London Collections Men - Day One

London Collections Men are a three day fixture of the fashion calendar during which designers showcase their next season collections via catwalk shows and presentations. I attended LCM for the first time this season and saw some incredible collections, met some very interesting designers and discovered some great new brands. These posts serve to illustrate the range and scope of the shows. Over the coming weeks and months, I will be devoting more time to individual designers and collections.

Topman Design

The Topman show is always a real highlight of LCM. Past seasons have seen the adventurer traveller and the glamorous cowboy. This time round a colour palette of blood red and orange with black and grey created a dark and dramatic effect, especially with the looser fitting trousers and outerwear. Standouts included the fisherman knits and luxe dark duffels with PVC paneling. A real departure for Topman Design, but this is a label that cannot really do any wrong.

Hardy Amies


A chic, tailored and crisp looking collection focusing on premium suiting and the finest quality fabrics and finishes. Entitled "The Monogrammed Spy", it looked back to Sir Hardy's life as a Secret Service Operative, as well as the iconic brand monogram. Quintessentially English and rakish. 

Richard Nicoll

Great blasts of colour such as the berry red jacket above with contrast collar along with some stand out shirts, with graphic prints. The tailoring was super precise and discreet, letting the slim lines and strong colours do all of the talking and invented a new label "sporty dandy". 

Gieves & Hawkes 


Quite simply the best suiting seen during the LCM shows, Gieves & Hawkes showcased clothes that millions of English men want to be wearing. The box bags deserve a special mention, as does the stunning evening wear. Gieves & Hawkes are the definition of English and luxury and soft tweeds, simple checks and the addition of smart sportswear only continues to cement this status. 

Jonathan Saunders


As we have come to expect from Jonathan Saunders, the presentation was a riot of colour. More controlled than before, but still heavy on print and pattern, this season the colours were primary and mixed with muted bases. The perfect statement coat and trousers for autumn. 

Thomas Pink 

A brilliant presentation, held at the Institute of Contemporary Arts. Models stood and posed on a wooden scaffolded structure, while guests were served a potent blend of cocktails, including a remake of the worlds first cocktail. The collection shown was incredibly strong. An emphasis on sharp and modern tailoring comprised of shirts, trousers, suits and a highly wearable collection of more sporty jackets mixed with knitted beanies, braces and denim. The jewel magenta, jade green and cobalt blue looked great against the checked shirts and jackets and linen muted ties. A fantastic evening and a reply strong collection for Autumn Winter 2013. 

Tateossian London

Contemporary and classic jewellers Tateossian held a great party on Monday evening to celebrate the launch of the new Bloggers Create range - 5 bracelets created by the label, designed in collaboration with 5 of the biggest UK menswear bloggers, including Craig Landale of Menswear Style, a site to which I have contributed articles to previously. Check back to The Rakish Gent next week for a full feature on this range. 

Attending Day One of LCM in suit from Topman with white shirt from Charles Tyrwhitt with monogram detailing, shoes from Office and peacock feather lapel pin also from Topman

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